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1、人类的演进与资源提取息息相关narratorThestoryofhumansisreallyastoryofextraction.以铜矿为例人类学会了开采铜矿将其锤炼成铲子和其他工具Takecopper,whichwelearnedtomineandhammerintoplowsandtools,并在铜中融入锡形成青铜andmixwithtintomakebronze.人类也提取煤炭和石油Orcoalandpetroleum,提取过程让人类学会了用火whichallowedustotamefire.但要改变这个世界Butinordertoshapetheworld,我们首先必须生存下来firs
2、tweneededtosurviveit,而我们人类赖以生存的珍贵资源就是andforthat,themostpreciousresourcewasthis.糖Sugar,最接近纯粹能量的资源theclosestthingwehavetopureenergy.回想我们的祖先他们擅长狩猎采集Thinkofourancestors.Theywerehuntersandgatherers.对他们而言糖是最便捷的能量来源Andforthem,sugarwasoneofthefastestsourcesofenergy.是人类进化出嗜甜的本性我们发现糖就会吃Soweevolvedtocravesugar
3、and,whenwefoundit,toeatit.只是人类祖先吃的糖不是这种糖narratorButtheywerenteatingsugarlikethis.他们吃的糖源自食物Itwasjustfoundinotherfoods.例如蔬果和坚硬的蔗茎Fruitsandvegetables,andtoughstalksofsugarcane.超过一千年前Itwasoverathousandyearsago某些有开创能力的人thatsomeenterprisinghumans学会了如何从甘蔗中提取糖分learnedtoextractthesugaroutofthesugarcane,将其蒸发后
4、形成晶体evaporateit,crystallizeit.然后转化成一种能够添加到任何物质中的成分narratorAndturnitintoaningredientthatyoucouldaddtoanything.我们做到了Andwedid.如今这种白色物质唾手可得LongNowwecouldgetthewhitestuffstraightupwheneverwewanted.问题是Problemwas,我们的大脑和身体仍旧与原始人一样WestillhadtheNeanderthalbrainandNeanderthalbody如今我们活在一个科技2.0和蔗糖5.0的环境中nowlivin
5、ginatech2.0,sugar5.0environment但人体和人脑仍然追不上进步Andourbodiesandbrainscantkeepupwiththat.我们曾经赖以生存的卡路里narratorThecaloriesthatwereoncevitaltooursurvival如今称为健康公害arenowapublichealthmenace.糖是导致肥胖、糖尿病reporterSugarisresponsibleforthehighratesofobesity,心脏疾病和癌症的一大因素diabetes,heartdiseaseandcancer,必须受到严格管控andshould
6、beregulated.心脏疾病和癌症的一大因素diabetes,heartdiseaseandcancer,摄取含糖饮料Sugarydrinkconsumption是导致美国肥胖问题肆虐的主要根源isakeydriveroftheobesityepidemicintheUnitedStates.糖容易上瘾Sugarisaddictive.吃糖相等于毒害人体Wereliterallypoisoningourselveswithsugar.于是科学家展开了一段漫长的征途narratorSoscientistshavebeenonaquest他们要打造出一种能取代糖的物质tocreatesomet
7、hingthatcandoWhatsugardoes.这种物质要能带来甜味和欢愉Giveusthatsweetnessandpleasure,却没有不必要的卡路里butwithoutallthecalorieswenolongerneed.有时候我们忘了糖不仅带来甜味Wesometimesforgetthatsugarisnotjustsweetness.糖也带来能量Sugarisenergy.也带来幸福感Sugarishappiness.以及口感Sugarismouthfeel.许多食品中都含有糖分Sugarismany,manythingsinfood我们可以取代糖andreplacing
8、it.但可以取代心吗?Imean,canyoureplacetheheart?我们能不能在满足内心深处对糖的古老欲望之余narratorSocanwesatisfyourdeep,ancientcravingforsugar不给人体带来伤害?withoutharmingourselves?我们能不能健康和美味兼得?Canweactuallyhaveourcakeandeatittoo?NETFLlX原创纪录片.系歹IJ盖上一层金黄色的糖man1Itscoatedwithgoldensugar.这个太好吃了小妖精不适合吃boy1Toogoodforleprechauns.傻兔子TRIX麦片是给孩
9、子吃的boy2Sillyrabbit.Trixareforkids.糖不具任何营养价值man2Sugardoesn,thaveanynutritionalvaluewhatsoever.我甚至觉得糖不足以称为营养成分darguethatyoucouldn,tevencallitanutrient.部分糖分会转化成脂肪man3Somesugarisconvertedintofat.他不能以糖果和甜食来取代正常饮食man4Heshouldn,tletcandyandsweetssubstituteforotherfoods.我的小肚肚需要填满好吃的Mytummywantssomeyummy.剧名:
10、糖这是用糖雕刻成的雕像RussellThesearesugarsculptures.这些复杂的雕塑完全采用糖雕刻而成Elaboratescenesconstructedentirelyofsugar,有时高达600公分以上sometimesover20feethigh,通常在中古世纪的皇家宴会上展示displayedatmedievalroyalbanquets.糖雕也叫“精品”Theywereknownassubtleties,因为是展现财富和权力的低调手法becausetheywereasubtlestatementofwealthandpower.只是说低调也并不低调Butitwasnt
11、thatsubtle.糖曾经是非常珍贵稀有的物质Sugarwasreallyexpensiveandrare.但大概150到200年之前情况彻底改变了Thatallchangedabout150to200yearsago,因为人类开始学会提炼甜菜糖和蔗糖whenwestartedbeingabletodistillbeetsugarandcanesugar将其转化成加工程度极高的高浓缩糖intoveryhighlyprocessed,highlyconcentratedsugar.糖不再是权力的象征RussellItwasnolongerasymbolofpower.糖成了健康和能量的食物来源
12、Sugarwasanenergyfoodforhealthandstrength.内科医生喜称糖具有超乎想象的提神成分Physiciansexcitedlyreportedonitsunexpectedstimulatingproperties.走在时尚尖端的女性受促多摄取含糖饮料Fashionableladieswereencouragedtosipsugarycordials,含糖饮料被视为骑过自行车后唯一对人体有益的饮料theonlyhealthybeveragethatcanbesafelytakenaftercycling.士兵对糖的效力惊讶不已称之为神效饮料Andsoldiersm
13、arveledthatitactedlikeacharm,能减轻疲劳和解渴relievingfatigueandquenchingthirst.当时没人寻找能够替代糖的物质Nobodywaslookingforsomethingtoreplacesugar.代糖的出现完全是意外Ithappenedentirelybyaccident.1878年的某个夜晚Oneeveningin1878,一名化学研究员正在享用晚餐aresearchchemistsatdownfordinner,他咬了一口圆面包感受到某种甜味bitintoabreadroll,andtastedsomethingsweet.甜味
14、并非来自面包Itwasntthebread.而是来自他的手Itwashisfingers.那天早上他的双手不小心沾到了某种溶液Hedspilledasolutionalloverhishandsearlierthatday.那是一种煤焦油衍化物如今我们称之为糖精Itwasacoaltarderivative,whichwenowknowassaccharin,糖精的甜度比糖高出300倍而且零卡路里300timessweeterthansugarandzerocalories,后来这种物质填满r这个粉色包装的纤而乐whichwouldendupfillingthosepinkpacketsofS
15、weetNLow.Atthetime,though,itsbiggestcustomers那个年代纤而乐最大的客户群体是糖尿病患者那个年代纤而乐最大的客户群体是糖尿病患者werediabeticsandcannerslookingforacheappreservative.那个年代纤而乐最大的客户群体是糖尿病患者werediabeticsandcannerslookingforacheappreservative.以及急欲寻找廉价防腐剂的罐头食品生产商werediabeticsandcannerslookingforacheappreservative.在那之后美国人的摄糖量开始飙升Butth
16、en,Americans1consumptionofsugarstartedshootingup.唯独世界大战期间糖受到配额管理导致摄糖量下降Itdippedduringtheworldwarswhensugarwasrationed,但战争后美国摄犍量极速恢复butquicklyrecovered.美国人的腰围也因此不断增加AndAmericanswaistlinesshotuptoo,心脏病发病率也相对提高asdidthenumberofheartattacks.到了六十年代Bythe1960s,在美国去世的人之中死于心脏病的占三分之一heartdiseasewasresponsiblef
17、orathirdofallAmericandeaths.医生开始怀疑糖很可能是主因Doctorsstartedsuspectingthatsugarmightplayarole,不少美国人开始实施减糖andlotsofAmericanswerelookingtocutback.所幸在那个年代实验室安全守则并不严格Fortunately,labsafetystillwasn,tthatgreat,科学家才得以不断地在无意识下发现新的甜味剂soscientistscontinuedtostumbleuponnewsubstancesthatcouldreplaceit.在三十年代一名药物研究员在抽
18、烟时Inthe1930s,adrugresearcheronasmokebreak无意间尝到残留在手指上的物质也就发明了甜蜜素happenedtotastehisfingersanddiscoveredcyclamate,这种甜味剂的甜味虽然不比糖精但仍旧比糖还要甜lesssweetthansaccharin,butstillsweeterthansugar,于是零卡路里汽水面市了whichgaveusthefirstno-caloriesoda.零卡路里汽水瓶瓶充满欢乐announcerYes,theresapartyineverybottleofNo-Cal,这是前所未有的最佳无糖汽水th
19、efirstthefinestsugar-freesoftdrink.到了六十年代RussellThen,inthe1960s,又有一名药物研究员舔了手指感受到某种甜味anotherdrugresearcherlickedhisfingersandtastedsomethingsweet.这种事是常有的吗?interviewerDoesthathappenalot?科学家忘记洗手然后舔了手指?Doscientistsjustforgettowashtheirhandsandlickthem?现在没有了laughsNotanymore.但多亏了这个家伙RussellButthankstothat
20、guy,阿斯巴甜面市了其卡路里与糖不相上下Wegotaspartame,roughlythesamecaloriesassugar,但甜度比糖多出200倍因此只需要放一点but200timessweeter,soyouneededmuchless.到了七十年代Andthen,inthe1970s,一名科学家正在研究一种糖和氯的化合物ascientistwasworkingonacompoundofsugarandchlorine,据说他当时受到指示要给该物质做“测试”andwasreportedlyaskedtotestit.但他听错指示他以为要“品尝”于是照着做了Hemisheardandt
21、asteditinstead.那个研究员没有因此死去于是三氯蔗糖面市了Theresearchersurvived,andwegotsucralose.零卡路里甜得不得了Zerocalories,unbelievablysweet,以最强代糖的称号♥推出市面andmarketedastheultimatesubstitute.这是善品糖manSplendabrandsweetener.善品糖就是糖YoucansaysugaroryoucansaySplenda.人工甜味剂就像某种魔法RussellArtificialsweetenersseemedlikeamagictrick.多
22、亏了神奇的化学作用Thankstothewondersofchemistry.我们得以在零卡路里负荷下womanYoucanenjoyallthesesweetsensations享受种种甜蜜感觉withoutallthecalories.毫无罪恶感地享受欢愉RussellGuilt-freepleasure.好得太不真实了manSoundsjusttoogoodtobetrue.对许多人来说甜味剂的确好得太不真实RussellFormany,thatdidindeedsoundtoogoodtobetrue.在六七十年代有几项科学研究显示Inacouplestudiesinthe60sand
23、70s,摄取甜味剂的白鼠患上了膀胱癌theygaveratsbladdertumors,甜味剂致癌的消息引起一阵恐慌leadingtoapanicthatthesesweetenerscausedcancer.美国政♥府♥开始禁止甜蜜素TheUSbannedcyclamate,阿斯巴甜审批也即刻喊停putapauseonapprovingaspartame,并规定糖精产品必须贴上警告标签andmadesaccharinproductsaddawarninglabel声明该产品有可能危害健康sayingitmaybehazardoustoyourhealth.对许多人
24、来说糖看似较安全的选择Tomany,sugarseemedlikeasaferoption.糖业在危机处理方面也下尽苦工Andthesugarindustryhaddonealotofdamagecontrol,糖业宣称糖其实是减肥食品claimingsugarwasactuallyadietfood,是纤体瘦身的聪明食品thesmartwaytostayslimandtrim.每次想要大快朵颐时Anytimeyouweretemptedtoovereat,糖能立刻抑制食欲sugarcouldinstantlycurbyourappetite因为每一茶匙只含有18卡路里becauseitwas
25、only18caloriesateaspoon是纯能量andallenergy.多米诺牌精致糖甚至宣称ThisDominoadevenclaimedthatthreespoonfulsofsugar一颗举果比三大汤匙的糖更容易致胖waslessfatteningthananapple.然而虽然糖的卡路里较低但各种卡路里的效益不同Butwhileitmighthavefewercalories,notallcaloriesarecreatedequal.摄取一颗苹果后血糖会缓慢地上升Whenyoueatanapple,yourbloodsugarlevelsrisegently.吃苹果不仅摄取了
26、糖分LongYougetthesugar,butyoualsogetit也同时摄取了纤维、水分以及大量营养素withfiberandwater,andawholehostofmacronutrients.需要隔一阵子才能完全消化RussellWhichtakesawhiletodigest.但纯糖是即时能量大起大落Butpuresugarismoreinstantenergy,followedbyacrash,因此吃糖后饥饿感会更加强烈soyoucanactuallyfeelhungrierthanyoudidbefore.一旦吃得更多Andifyoueatmoreandmore,这种即时能量
27、就会开始消耗体力allthatinstantenergycanstarttostrainyourbody.这意味着胰岛素反应长♥期♥处在高亢的状态中Thatmeansyourinsulinrespondsbystayingchronicallyelevatedaswell.胰岛素是控制体内糖分的激素RussellInsulinisthehormonethattellsyourbodywhattodowithsugar,负责将糖分送入细胞内为人体提供能量unlockingyourcellssotheycanuseitasenergy.能量充足了多余的能量就会储存起来形
28、成脂肪Andiftheyhaveenough,youstoretheenergyforlaterasfat.但是如果人体不断分泌出胰岛素Butifinsulinisconstantlypumpingthroughyourbody,细胞就会渐渐对胰岛素产生抵抗力最终导致yourcellsstartbecomingresistanttoitandeventually.胰脏分泌出大量的胰岛素Thepancreasispumpingoutlotsandlotsofinsulin,但胰岛素不再发挥作用buttheinsulinsnotworking.于是就会患上二型糖尿病Thatswhenyougett
29、hetype2diabetes.细胞无法取得所需的“燃料”RussellYourcellscantgetthefueltheyneed.不幸的是这些大量的胰岛素Unfortunately,thishighinsulinlevel仍然持续发挥其他应有的作用isstillworkingatsomeoftheotherjobsinsulinissupposedtodo.其中之一就是制♥造♥脂肪Andoneofthoseisfat-making.因此人要变胖很容易瘦下来却很难RussellSoitseasiertogainweightandhardertoloseit,胰岛
30、素升高血糖也相应升高andyourbloodsugaralsobuildsup,足以损害内脏健康例如心脏whichcandamagepartsofyourbody,likeyourheart.在六七十年代糖的危害并不多人知晓Backinthe60sand70s,thatwasntwell-known.人们对糖褒贬不一Weweregettingalotofmixedmessagesonsugar,但有个信息非常明确butwegotonemessageveryclearly.心脏病祸害的罪魁祸首是饱和脂肪Theculpritbehindourscourgeofheartdiseasewassatu
31、ratedfat.食品工业就此事做出了应对策略Thefoodindustryresponded在各种食品包装上贴上“不含脂肪”withallkindsofproductslabeledfat-free或“对心脏有益”的标签orhearthealthy.只是去除了脂肪食物就失去了味道Butwhenyoutakeoutfat,youloseflavor.因此大部分情况下So,inmanycases,公♥司♥以糖取代脂肪companiesaddedsugarinitsplace.这时人工甜味剂也已渐渐恢复声誉Butartificialsweetenerswerealsor
32、ecoveringtheirreputation.一项又一项的研究显示Studyafterstudyafterstudy没有证据能证明人工甜味剂与癌症有直接关联hadntfoundanyevidencethattheycausecancerinhumans.早前研究中的那些白鼠Theratsinthoseearlierstudies?每天的摄取量相当于百多罐零热量汽水TheyweregiventheequivalentOfhundredsofcansofdietsodaaday.还有Andalso.白鼠和老鼠不是人类Ratsandmicearen,thumans.1993年可口可乐公&hear
33、ts;司♥推出了一种以阿斯巴甜为主要成分的汽水RussellWhenCoca-Colareleasedanaspartame-basedsodain1983,那是一个历史性的大事itwasalandmarkevent.健怡可乐首次面市manTheworldpremiereofDietCoke.非喝不可的美妙滋味J*You,regonnadrinkitJustforthetasteofitJ在短短十年之内RussellWithinadecade,阿斯巴甜取代了美国食品生产业中aspartamehadreplacedoverabillionpoundsofsugar超过4.5亿公斤的
34、糖infoodsanddrinksintheUS.但人工甜味剂并没有取代糖在我们日常饮食中的地位Butartificialsweetenerswerentreplacingsugarinourdiet而是成了吃更多的借口Theywerelargelyanexcusetoeatmoreofit,我们甚至发现了降低生产成本的方式andwedfiguredoutevencheaperwaystomakeit,也就是从玉米中提取糖分likeoutofcorn.如今美国有75%包装食品都添了糖Sugarisnowaddedtothree-quartersofpackagedfoodsintheUS,糖还
35、有超过60个别名goingbymorethan60differentnames.右旋糖、果糖、蔗糖、高果糖浆LongDextrose,fructose,sucrose,任何以“ose”为后缀的单词都是指某种形态的糖high-fructosecornsyrup.Anythingthatendswithoseisaformofsugar.糖还有一个婉称这个我最喜欢了Oroneofmyfavoriteeuphemismsforsugar,叫“蒸蔗汁”evaporatedcanejuice.人工甜味剂永远不可能取代RussellTherewasnochanceartificialsweeteners包
36、装食品中的糖分weregoingtoreplacesugarinallthesefoods.任何尝过甜味剂的人知道Ithinkanybodywhohastriedanartificialsweetener我们并没有那么容易上当knowsthatwerenotreallyfooledbythem.甜味剂和糖的味道的确有差Theydonttasteexactlylikesugar.我不喜欢假糖的味道No,Idontlikethewaythatfakesugar,假糖会在嘴里留下一种怪味youknow,leavesthattasteinyourmouth.-多难吃?-像有甜味的化学物质Howbadi
37、sit?-Sweetenedchemically.甜得难以下咽Supersweetthatyourmouthcan,treallyhandleit.我不喜欢人工甜味剂manmnotafanOfartificialsweeteners.我喝过含糖精的汽水也吃过含糖精的口香糖vehadsaccharinbeforeinsodasandchewinggum.吃了口腔变得粗糙干燥要喝更多的水Itmakesmymouthchalkyanddry,andneedingtodrinkmorewater.王毕切致力于用更少的糖RussellPichetOnghasspenthiscareertryingtom
38、akedessertswithlesssugar,制♥造♥出不缺美味的甜点withoutevercompromisingontaste.每次吃下含有阿斯巴甜的甜点时WhenIwasconsumingtheoneswithaspartame.身体也会产生相同的反应italsohadasimilareffecttome.味道就是怪怪的Itsnotquite,youknow,naturaltasting.糖的一大特性在于其甜度时间变量RussellAbigpartofhowsugartastesistime.也就是吃进嘴里之后甜味达到顶峰的时间Thetimeittakes
39、forthesweetnesstopeakafteryoutakeabite,会在嘴里残留多久还有会消失得多快howlongitlingers,andhowfastitdeclines.这叫甜度特性曲线lt,scalledtemporalsweetnessprofile.这是糖的甜度特性曲线Thisishowitlooksforsugar.吃进嘴里后甜度在极短时间内达到最高点Itpeaksreallyfast又在极短时间内消失anddisappearsreallyfast.这是三氮蔗糖的甜度特性曲线Andthisishowitlooksforsucralose.甜度缓缓地上升Thesweett
40、astecomesonslower停留良久后才缓缓地消失andtakesitssweettimeleaving.阿斯巴甜甜度达到最高点更慢停留的时间也更长Aspartamehitsevenlaterandloitersevenlonger.这些变量只有几毫秒之差Thedifferenceisfractionsofasecond,但对于味蕾来说却是恒久的butforourtastebuds,thatsaneternity.糖不仅只有甜味Andsugarisaboutmorethanjustsweetness.糖也能给糖霜带来光泽Itmakesicingglisten让蛋糕变得湿润蓬松andcak
41、esmoistandfluffy.如果把蛋糕里的糖都拿走BanielIfyoutakeallthesugaroutofacake,整个“蛋糕”就会变得像一块口袋面包thecakewouldcomeoutlikeapitabread.因此这是一项巨大的挑战Sothechallengesarehuge.其中一个适合众多料理的甜味剂就是甜菊糖Theonesweetenerthatsworkedformeinmanyrecipesisstevia.甜菊糖是一种零卡路里的天然甜味剂RussellSteviaisanaturalcalorie-freesweetener.革取自一种遍布在南美洲的植物能做出
42、美味的布丁ItcomesfromaSouthAmericanplant,anditcanmakeadecentpudding.但这种甜味剂的甜度比人工甜味剂达到最高点的速度更慢Butthesweetnesscomesonevenlaterthanartificialsweeteners加上甜味迟迟不退很容易让人意识到非真糖andoverstaysitswelcome,revealingitselfasfake.但有一种甜味剂味道与糖惊人地相似Thereisonesweetenerthattastesuncannilylikesugar,只是甜度稍微较低justalittlelessintens
43、e.叫稀少糖Allulose,代糖的后起之秀therisingstarofsugarsubstitutes.严格说来稀少糖就是一种糖Technically,itsasugar,自无花果、葡萄干中少量提取ararekindfoundintinyamountsinfoodslikefigsandraisins,但不会产生糖给身体带来的反应butitdoesntactlikesugarinourbodies.稀少糖无法完全分解意味着这种糖的卡路里几乎等于零Wecantfullybreakitdown,whichmakesitnearlycalorie-free.这种糖适合融入各种料理Itperfor
44、mswellinthekitchen,早期研究报告显示能安全食用andearlystudiessuggestitssafe.但生产这种糖的商家不多大部分国家尚未批准使用Butonlyafewproducersmakeit.Mostcountrieshaventapprovedityet.其价格与高端健康食品相等Andit,spricedlikegourmethealthfood.也没有任何一种甜味剂包括稀少糖在内Andnoneofthesesweeteners,evenallulose,足以取代糖最神奇的力量canreplacethemostmagicalthingaboutsugar.(满足
45、感)糖在大脑中的作用跟性♥爱♥和毒品一样LongSosugaractsinthesamepartofyourbrainassexandaddictivedrugs.属大脑的奖励区Therewardzoneofyourbrain.吃糖后人体会分泌出多巴胺令人身心更加愉悦Soyoueatsugar,youvereleaseddopamine,youfeelhappier.驱使我们吃糖的不只是饥饿感RussellItisntjusthungerthatdrivesustoeatsugar.还有欲望Itsdesire.因此即使我们吃饱了Thatswhy,evenwhenwe
46、refull,看到有人请我们吃甜点我们难免还是会精神一振Westillperkupwhensomeoneoffersusdessert是不是很有趣呢?BanielIsntthatfunny?饱餐过后Wehaveaspecialspace我们总会为这种邪恶感的滋味fortheindulgenttaste留一个特别的空间attheendofameal.一项研究发现大脑奖励区唯有在摄取RussellOnestudyfoundthattherewardzonesofourbrain含有卡路里的甜食后才会被激活onlygetactivatedwhensweetnesscomeswithcalories.想要得到欢愉就要付出代价Ifyouwantthepleasure,youhavetopayforit.这是令人心痛的事实Thebittertruthis这意味着我们无法在揭弃Wecantmimicsugar,不想要的成分的前提下复♥制♥糖justleavingoutthepartswedo