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1、每段时期都会出现某种爆款的造型woman1Thereisdefinitelyalookthatisveryontrend每次打开SnapChat或Instagram就可以看出一二andyouseeitanytimeyouopenSnapChatorInstagram.“可乐型身材woman2TheCoca-Colabody.“吉他型”身材man1Shapedlikeaguitar.很多人把在InStagram上看到的美女身材膨容成“沙漏”woman3IthinkalotofpeoplethinktheInstagrambodyishourglass.我认为更像“汤匙”AndIthinkit,s
2、actuallymoreofthespoonshape.这种身材总是会搭配某种特定的脸蛋narratorAndthatbodyisoftenpairedwithacertainkindofface.大嘴唇、狐媚眼man2Biglips,thefoxeyes.小鼻子woman1Aslimlittlenose.就像凯莉詹娜那种类型的样貌woman4IguesslikeKylieJennerandlikethatkindofgroup.我绝对认为Instagram上展现的外貌不是真的woman5IdefinitelythinktheInstagramlookisnotreal.这要取决于我们对“真”
3、的定义是什么narratorItdependswhatyoumeanbyreal.没错某些脸孔可能通过预设滤镜Itstrue,someofthosefacesmayhavebeenalteredwithpresetfilters以及类似美图秀秀的应用修饰过orusingappslikeFacetune,这些功能让人能瞬间修饰照片whereyoucanmakeminutetweakstoyourphoto,调整大小、磨皮、改变脸部结构resizing,smoothing,shiftingtheverystructureofyourface.这些“微整容”会反映在我们脸bThereareallof
4、theseslighttweaksthatwevebeenabletoseeonourselves.也越来越多有能力追求整形的人Andmoreandmorepeoplewiththeaccesstopursuethem开始将那张修饰过的脸蛋应用在现实生活中arestartingtoadoptthatfaceforthemselvesinreallife.过去十年以来narratorThenumberofcosmeticprocedures美容整形手术数量增加了将近两倍hasnearlydoubledinthelastdecade.整形手术越来越安全、便宜和精致Theyvegottensafer
5、,cheaper,andmoresophisticated.接受整形手术的人也越来越年轻和多元化Andthepatientsreceivingthemhavegottenyoungerandmorediverse.感觉上我们正在往一个Itfeelslikeweremovingtowardafuture可以彻底改变容貌的未来迈进whereourappearancesarefundamentallychangeable.那这是坏事吗？So,isthatabadthing?整形手术是不是正在改变我们看待自己的方式？And,isplasticsurgerychangingthewayweseeours
6、elves?一旦康复后你就会变成一个全新的人Youwillbeanentirelydifferentmanbythetimethehealingiscomplete.NETFLlX原创纪录片青春的泉源就在一支无痛注射器里manAfountainofyouthattheendofarelativelypainlesssyringe.但不能保证一切都会有美好的结局womanButtheresnoguaranteeitwillallendinsmiles.我认为他们要准备好受点疼Ithinktheyneedtoexpectalittlebitofpain.重点是尽可能延长颜值高峰期Well,itsa
7、matteroflookingthebestyoucanforaslongasyoucan.我的感觉绝对不同了因为我的容貌从未改变过Itmakesnodifferencewhatmfeeling.Myfaceneverchanges!laughter剧名：整形手术我们都对维持外貌所做出的努力可以用光谱来划分CattrailThethingswedotolookgoodexistonaspectrum.在一端有洗澡Ononeend,youhavethingsliketakingashower,化妆、染发wearingmakeup,dyeingyourhair.这些事很久以前就被认同了Thatsl
8、ongbeenconsideredgood.毕竟这是在加强自然美Enhancingyournaturalbeauty.聊到对“美”的定义Assoonasyoustartlookingatthelanguageofbeauty,谈美离不开“道德伦理”beautytalkismoraltalk.“美”总是与“道德伦理”脱不了关系It,sjustgotmoralityalloverit.于是有人说：“你值得你配得So,Youdeserveit.Youreworthit.别放弃自己不应该放弃自己”Dontletyourselfgo.Youshouldn,thaveletyourselfgo.被羞辱、责
9、怪、赞美、奖赏时Anytimeyougetshame,blame,praise,reward,我们都会被贴上道德标签thenyouvegotamoralclaimgoingon.在光谱的另一端CattrailThen,ontheotherendofthespectrum,是指风险比较高、要承受更大的痛苦效果也较为持久的手段thingsareriskier,morepainful,morepermanent.人们也会对这种种行为指指点点Andpeoplemakemoraljudgmentsaboutthattoo.就拿2004年风靡美国火爆出圈的真人秀天鹅选美为例TakeTheSwan,a200
10、4realityshowthatwhippedAmericaintoafrenzy.制♥作♥组也知道他们在挑战道德极限Theshowknewitwaspushingboundaries,callingitself.这是史上最不寻常的竞赛型真人秀Themostunusualcompetitioneverdevised.一组整形外科医生CattrailAteamofsurgeons,加上医美牙医、心理治疗师教练和人生导师plusacosmeticdentist,therapist,trainer,andlifecoach,携手将自认是丑小鸭的女嘉宾“雕塑”成天鹅craf
11、tedself-describeduglyducklingsintoswans,然后将她们摆上舞台来个终极选美大赛andthenpittedthemagainsteachotherinafinalbeautypageant.观众为之疯狂Viewerslovedit.节目创下每周百万的收视率Millionstunedineveryweek.但是时评人几乎一面倒地给予劣评Butreviewers,theyreactedwithnear-universalhorror.他们用“差劲”、“荒谬”“令人痛心和嫌恶”来形容这档节目Theycalleditghastly,ridiculous,hurtful
12、,andrepellent.甚至登上CNN黄金时段ItevenmadeitontoCNNPrimetime.你没把她们变丑更没把她们变得相貌平平Youdontmakethemugly.Andyoudontevenmakethemmediocre.你为她们打扮给了她们“胸部”Imean,youdress,emup,and,youknow,yougivethembreasts.不幸的是有人给予节目劣评Unfortunately,somepeoplereactednegativelytotheshow.欣蒂是第一季的参赛者CattrailCindywasacontestantonSeason1.我就
13、从脸部开始说起吧Inglellstartfromthetop.我做了提眉手术SoIhadaneyebrowlift.额骨填充手术、眼底脂肪去除术Ihadcheekimplants.Ihadsomefatremovedundermyeyes.颊脂垫去除术下巴缩小术、微型拉皮术Ihadbuccalfatremoval,chinreduction,andaminiface-lift.隆胸术、腹部整形手术Breastaugmentation.ThenIhadatummytuck.大腿内侧也做了轻微的抽脂术Andlightliposuctiononmyinnerthighs.生下第二胎后Istarted
14、givingplasticsurgerymorethought我开始考虑做整形手术aftermysecondchild.当时我的身体外形经历了巨大的变化Mybodyhadwentthroughsuchaphysicalchange.给儿子哺乳后我的乳♥房♥&hearts严重变形After1finishednursingmyson,mybreastswerejustreallymisshapen.无论做多少次运动仰卧卷腹、仰卧起坐Nomatterhowmuchexerciseorcrunches,sit-upsIwoulddo,我都甩不掉产后形成的大肚脯Iwasnot
15、losingmybabybelly.但他们是一对年轻的夫妇CattrailButtheywereayoungfamily没钱做医美手术andcouldntsparethemoneyforcosmeticsurgery.所以当天鹅选美选角组通过电台广播招募女嘉宾时SowhenTheSwanhadacastingcallcommercialontheradio,那一刻我知道起码要去尝试看看atthatpoint,Iknewthat1neededtoatleasttry.她没有丝毫后悔.我对结果非常满意CattrailAndshehasnoregrets.-mveryhappywiththeresu
16、lts.我吓了一跳我有了纤细的腰围Thatfreakedmeout.Ihadateeny,tinywaist.我以前从未有过腰线dneverreallyhadawaistbefore.非常喜欢我的鼻子1.ovemynose.Lovemynose.那天我非常开心挺厉害的【wasreallyhappythatday.It,skindofcool.那一季节目播出后CattrailAfterthatseasoncameout,50万名女性申请参加下一季halfamillionwomenappliedtobeonthenextone.愿意上电视接受整形手术的人Morepeoplethanliveinth
17、eentirecountryOfIceland比冰岛人口还多werewillingtogoontelevisiontogetplasticsurgery.2000年代初我们对美”的定义有了质的飞跃Intheearly2000s,ourideaofextremewaschanging.但其实整个“美”的光谱在过去将近100年以来Butthiswholespectrumhadactuallybeenshiftinggradually一直在缓慢地♥产♥生变化foralmostahundredyears.loudgunfire第一次世界大战是人类前所未见的灾难WorldWa
18、rIwaslikenothinghumanityhadeverseenbefore.现代化武器、坦克、机关枪、毒气导致数以百万计人丧命Modernweaponry,tanks,machineguns,poisongaskilledmillions,把城市化为废墟reducedcitiestorubble,留下一代人都是伤兵andleftintheirwakeagenerationofinjuredsoldiers,多数士兵的容貌被榴霰弹片和了弹损毁manyofthemwithfacesdisfiguredbyshrapnelandbullets.外科医生从没见过这种伤势Surgeonshadn
19、everseeninjurieslikethesebefore.为了治好他们医生必须拿出创意Sotofixthem,theyhadtogetcreative.提取肋软骨来塑造鼻梁Craftingnosesoutofcartilageborrowedfromribs,提取腿骨来重塑损毁的下巴reformingshatteredjawswithbitsoflegbone,提取脂肪和细胞组织来填充颊骨andfillinginhollowedcheekswithpatientsownfatandtissue.外科医生连续几年为同样的病人进行治疗Surgeonsspentyearsworkingonth
20、esamepatients,尽可能恢复他们原来的容貌strivingtomakethemlooklikethemselvesagain.如果无法通过提取骨肉来恢复病人的容貌Andiftheycouldntdothatwithfleshalone,外科医生会雇用真正的艺术家为病人塑造乳胶面具theyhiredactualartiststocraftprostheticmasks.他们的作品除了着重于功能Theirworkwasntjustaboutfunction.也着重于形态Itwasaboutform.一名活跃于第一次世界大战期间的外科医生OneofthoseWorldWarIsurgeon
21、s后来被誉为整形手术始祖isnowsometimesknownasthefatherOfaestheticsurgery.约瑟夫医生写道AsJosephwrote,“那些只想恢复正常样貌Someonewhosimplywantsanormalappearance,不想招彳来异样目光的人wishestobeinconspicuous,不应该遭人嗤之以鼻”shouldnotsuffertheodiumofvanity.约瑟夫不仅治疗伤口Hedidntjusttreatthewounded.他和所治疗的大多数病人皆为犹太人JosephwasJewish,andsoweremanyofhispatie
22、nts,后者希望他能帮助他们去除脸上的民族标志whowantedhimtoerasethemarkersoftheirethnicity,以避免他们在那个allowingthemtobeinconspicuous对犹太人充满敌意的社会中招徒异样的目光inasocietythatwashostiletowardsthem.也是约瑟夫医生将整形手术Hehelpedputplasticsurgeryonthespectrum列入维持容貌手段的范畴之内assomethingyoucoulddoforaestheticsalone.20世纪中期Inthemid,20s,半数美国人每星期都要上电影院Hal
23、fofAmericawasgoingtothemovieseveryweek许多初露头角的明星andlotsofbuddingstarswerehavingtheirfacesshuffled为了登上大银幕纷纷整容变脸andreassembledforthescreen,毕竟他们都是“靠脸吃饭”的人becausethosefacesweretheirstock-in-trade.美国喜剧演员范妮布莱斯以其整形鼻风靡一时ComedianFannyBricefamouslygotanewnose,男神鲁道夫华伦天奴也曾重塑耳形andheartthrobRudolphValentinohadhise
24、arsreshaped.在1924年一家报社举办了一项In1924,anewspaperevenlaunched很可能是史上第一项整形选美赛的活动whatmayhavebeenthefirstplasticsurgerycontest.他们要寻找纽约市外貌最平凡的女孩AsearchforthehomeliestgirlinNewYork,要扭转她不幸的人生sotheycouldturnhermisfortuneintoafortune.一个叫杰奎琳内格尔的女人赢r她的人生也被成功扭转了AwomannamedJacquelineNaagelwon,anditworked.她也争取到一份电影合同之
25、后搬到加州居住ShescoredamoviecontractandmovedtoCalifornia.事后几十年之内Andinthedecadessince,整形手术的费用越来越低手法越来越安全也更容易取得plasticsurgeryhasonlygottencheaper,safer,andmoreaccessible.整形手术的供应越来越多也越来越多样化Therearemoreproviders.Therearemoretypesofproviders.价格各异Differentpricepoints.变得就像其他服务-样唾手可得Itsbecomelikeotherservices,soy
26、oucanfinditacrossarange.日常保养和极端整形之间有什么差别？Whatisthedifferencebetweenroutineandextreme?是时间长短不同吗？Isitaboutthetimetaken?还是一个只要在家做一个则需要专家动手？Isitaboutwhetheryoucandoitathomeoritrequiresanexperttodoitforyou?或是一个风险和疼痛程度较高？Isitabouthowriskyandpainfulitis?一般上两者的差别定义是一个是自己做另一个是想做Usually,allwemeaniswhatwewouldd
27、oourselves,orwouldliketodo.推高式胸罩算极端吗？CattrailIsapush-upbraextreme?那戴牙套或激光除毛算不算极端？Howaboutbracesorlaserhairremoval?那除痣、冷冻溶脂术、添加填充物注射肉毒杆菌又怎么说？Cuttingoffamole?Freezingoffyourfat?Fillers?Botox?不久以前注射肉毒杆菌WiddowsItwasntverylongagowhenBotoxwasviewed仍被视为心理有病的明星才会做的事asthiscrazythingthatmadcelebritiesweredoin
28、g,毕竟这相等于往自己脸上注射毒素injectingpoisonintotheirfaces.如今情况彻底改变了Oh,itschangedtremendously.在我当上外科整形医生以前Ithink,beforemytime,人们对注射肉毒杆菌充满了偏见asaplasticsurgeon,therewasalotofstigma.如今就我所见大部分民众对注射肉毒杆菌的罪恶感已经减少了Butingeneral,nowwhatIseeisthereslessguiltfeeling,也不再像以前那么避忌thereslesssecrecy.怀孕之前我有一身好身材womanPriortohaving
29、children,Ihadashape.二十多岁时我的身材还不错Inmytwenties,Ihadaniceshape.我让医生看的理想状态照片WhenI.Ididshowthedoctormywishpic,照片上是我较年轻时的样子butitwasmeyounger.我开始意识到自己的变化Istartedtonoticechanges.眼睛开始有点下垂看起来有点疲倦Myeyesstartedtolookalittlebitmoreheavy,alittlebitmoretired,但我感觉上还是很精神不觉得疲倦andIdidntfeelthatway,1didntfeeltired.我感觉非
30、常精神只是看起来很疲倦这点令我很困扰Ifeltgreat,butIlookedtired,anditbotheredme.我小时候就患上男性乳♥房♥♥发育症Ihadgynecomastiaasachild.稍微年长后Uh,andthen,whenIgotolder,我做了双侧乳♥房♥♥切除术Isortofjusthadadoublemastectomy,也就是一种切除乳♥房♥♥细胞组织和脂肪组织的手术whichisremovalofbreasttissueandfatt
31、issue.我相信长得好看Ibelievethatifyoulookgood,人生就会变得更顺遂everythingisgonnacomesmootherinyourlife.我的目光很容易被走过的女人吸引Ijustalwaysnoticedwomenwhowouldwalkby,经常边看边想：“那个女人真漂亮”andIwasalwayslike,Thatwomanssobeautiful.这些女人都挺着大胸Itwasalwayslarge-breastedwomen.每个人的光谱都不一样CattrailEveryonesspectrumisdifferent.取决于我们的身份和文化背景Itd
32、ependsonwhoyouareandthecultureyoucomefrom.在世界上某些地方整形手术无异日常保养WiddowsThereareplaceswherecosmeticsurgeryisjustroutine,像是成人礼ariteofpassage.例如南韩CattrailLikeSouthKorea,每三位年龄20岁以上的女性当中whereoneinthreewomenintheirtwenties就有一位做过整形手术havegottenworkdone.为了事业前景进行的整形手术Andtheresaspecialname也有一个特殊名称forsurgeriesunder
33、takenjusttoimproveyourjobprospects.巴西亦然OrinBrazil.有个关于整形权利的说法WiddowsTheresanarrativeabouttherighttobeauty有人说妇女比年轻女性andtheresawholethingabouthowthemistress,nomorethanthemaid,更有权利进行整形手术shouldhavethatright.这都要归功于这个叫伊沃皮唐吉的男人CattrailAnd,inpart,thatsthankstothisman,IvoPitanguyl他是享誉全球上流社会的外科整形医生aworld-reno
34、wnedsurgeontotherichandfamous.其整形事业如日中天Alucrativebusiness.甚至给自己买♥♥了一座私人岛屿Heboughthisownprivateisland.但他也为平民提供免费整形手术Buthealsooperatedonthedestituteforfree,此善举使他享有“整容外科界教皇”的美誉earninghimthenicknameThepopeofplasticsurgery；更被奉为国家伟人andthestatusofanationalhero.这是他在1999年巴西嘉年华上的身影HereheisatCarn
35、ivalin1999,身边被一片舞者包围surroundedbyaseaofdancers他则高高站在一个精致花车上atophisveryownelaboratefloat.皮唐吉是整形鼻祖Pitanguywasapioneer.他发明了腹部除皱手术将位于比基尼区的疤痕藏起来Hedevelopedtechniquesfortummytucksthathidscarringbelowthebikiniline,在微创拉皮手术方面独占螯头championedlessinvasiveminiface-lifts,还发明了“巴西提臂术”anddevelopedtheBrazilianbuttlift.
36、巴西提臂术会抽出身体其他部位的脂肪TheBBLisaprocedurewherefatissuckedfromelsewhereinyourbody,通常是大腿和腹部usuallythethighorbelly,然后移植到臀部andinjectedintoyourbutt.八十年代时期巴西版花♥花♥公♥子♥刊登了一则封面故事Backinthe80s,PlayboyBrazilpublishedacoverstory将“巴西翘臀”奉为一种全国潮流thatcalledbuttsanationalpassion.把时间往前推进几十年Anddec
37、adesbeforethat,1954年环球小姐选美赛上巴西佳丽玛尔塔罗恰的身材曲线Braziscontestantinthe1954MissUniversePageant,MarthaRocha,显然比台上其他佳丽更为明显hadmorecurvesthantheaveragewomanonthatstage.进人决赛环节announcer1MissBrazilisastunningstepper巴西佳丽是个充满魅力的参赛佳丽asthecontestnarrowsdowntothefinalists.结果她输rCattrallShelost.冠军是来自美国的佳丽announcer2Andits
38、MissUSA.因为评审说她的臀部太大CattrailBecausethejudgessaidherhipsweretoobig.我记得以前有段时期白人女性担心屁♥股♥太翘Irememberwhenwhitewomenwerescaredtohavefatasses.我记得那是历史的一部分1.ikeIrememberthatbeingpartofhistory.因此混音老爹录制了一首风靡一时的流行曲OfSirMix-A-Lofsinfamoussong.我喜欢翘臀我认了JIlikebigbuttsandIcannotlie?开场的那一段幽默短剧完美地叙述了他的想法T
39、heskitatthebeginning,itcapturesthatperfectly.天啊贝奇瞧瞧她的翘臀Oh,myGod.Becky,lookatherbutt.真正将翘臀推上主流神坛的人是金卡戴珊AndwhatreallyhelpedtomainstreamthatwasKimKardashian.接着卡戴珊姐妹也纷纷加入翘臀的行列Andtherestofhersisters,onebyone,kindofslowlyfollowingsuit后来巴西提臀术成为成长最快速的整形手术CattrailAndtheBBLbecamethefastest-growingprocedurebyf
40、ar.巴西翅臀热潮风靡全球Brazilspassionforbigbuttshasgoneglobal.但读过这篇花♥花♥公♥子♥文章的人ButifyoureadPlayboyforthearticles,都会发现整形较为黑暗的一面youdhavefoundamuchdarkerstory.一名社会学家表示人们对曲线美的追求Asociologistclaimedthecurvybeautyideal可追溯到非裔妇女奴隶时期couldbetracedbacktoenslavedAfricanwomen当年女黑奴为白人主人生育whoboret
41、hechildrenoftheirwhiteslaveowners,衍生了排除黑人特征的优生学实验resultingineugenicaestheticexperimentsthatavoidedAfricanoidexaggerations.换句话说Inotherwords,就是要塑造出aBlackwomansbutt拥有黑人女性翘臀的白人onabodythatotherwiselookedwhite.沉迷翘臀并无不妥Theobsessionwithbigbuttsisdefinitelyappropriative,以至于如今天生没有翅臀的黑人女性anditmakesitsothatnowB
42、lackwomenwhodonothavethatbodytype认为自己不够“黑”aresomehowseenas,like,lessBlack,或是认为自己吸引力不够orlessattractiveasBlackwomen.替我加油Wishmeluck.我常看到男朋友浏览社交媒体时Iwouldseemyboyfriendscrollingthroughsocialmediasometimes专看某种女生他还会去点赞她们的照片andthetypeofgirlsthathewouldliketheirpictures,这些女生的身材跟我不一样itdidn,treflectwhatIlooked
43、likeorwhatmybodytypelookedlike.我心想：“如果有机会修饰身材AndIjustfeltlike,Heresalaneformetogetitdone.何不改造我不满意的部分？”Whynotfixsomethingthat1don,tlike?我刚做完手术Ijustfinishedmysurgery,guys.有点痛这是一定的没有疼痛nurseAlittlepain,sure.Withoutpain.哪来的美对吧？Youknow,whatisbeauty?没有痛苦哪来的美？Whatisbeautywithoutpain?接着“网红脸”出现了CattrailAndthe
44、ntherestheInstagramface,就是结合不同种族人脸优点的脸蛋whichisbasicallyamash-upoffeaturesborrowedfromdifferentethnicities.尾部上扬的狐媚眼、厚厚的香肠嘴唇Thoseslantedfoxeyesandbig,pillowylips过去几世纪以来一直遭到带有种族歧视意味的动画抹黑havebeenmockedinracistcaricaturesforcenturies,如今人们竟然付钱整出这些特征andpeoplenowpayforthem,用可溶解缝线将眼部两侧往上拉gettingtheirtemplesp
45、ulledbackwithlittledissolvablethreads,在嘴唇上注射几剂填充物andtheirlipsplumpedwithafewsyringesoffiller.越来越多人有能力去追求Withmorepeoplebeingabletopursue这种被科技、社交媒体和娱乐圈thisbodytypethathasbeenheavilyinfluencedbytech过分渲染的体态andbysocialmediaandbyentertainment,如今我们得知有可能拥有理想中的样貌theexpectationonwhatyoushouldlooklike,造成我们对正常样
46、貌的追求becausewenowknowwhatyoucanlooklikebasedonthepossibilities,变得越来越低isgettingsmallerandsmaller.非常态和常态之间的距离越来越小Thatwindowisgettingmorenarrow.“常态”的定义越来越狭隘也渐渐趋向一致Whatisnormalisbecomingnarrowerandisconverging.这是前所未有的新趋势Andthatsnew.Weveneverhadthatbefore.以体毛为例So,forinstance,bodyhair.稍微把时间往前移西方人以前认为有体毛是社会常态IfyougobackalittlebitintheWest,youfindit,smuchmoreofasocialnorm.有些人会剃掉体毛有些人则不会CattrailSomepeopleremovedtheirbodyhair.Som
