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1、拉斯维加斯是个情绪得到舒缓的地方MAN:LasVegasistheplacewherethesteamgetsletoff.来这里就象度假Ifslikeavacation.人们来这里感觉年轻了许多Peoplecancomehereandfeeltheyrelivinganaughtierlife.要酒吗？Cocktails?拉斯维加斯把时间抛在脑后MAN:LasVegasisclockless,也就是说它会打乱你整个节奏andinthatsensejtdoesthrowyourwholerhythmoff.我认为那里好像是Ithinkthatthatinduces不知方位轻松失重akindof
2、spacelessnessandweightlessness四处游荡andaplacelessness所以说拉斯维加斯是与世隔绝的sothatLasVegasbecomesaworldintoitself.哇睡！Yahoo!我说这里毕竟是沙漠里的一座城市MAN:Imean,thisisafterallacityinthedesert,当然啦拉斯维加斯会说soLasVegasSUggeSts,ofcourse,世界的其它地方都是不毛之地thatthewholerestoftheworldisthedesert而自己却是绿洲anditistheoasis.我们不希望拉斯维加斯有什么去打扰游客WOM
3、AN:WedontwantanythinginLasVegasthatupsetsthetourists如果有什么不到位的地方andifit,satouchofrealitythatisnotpretty,我们会千方百计去消除,thenwewanttogetridofit.在这里你不该有什么不切实际的想法Youdontwanttocomeincontactwithrealitywhenyou,rehereforfantasy.这里没有深刻反省的文化MAN:Itsnotadeeplyintrospectiveculture.这里没有内陆的生活方式It,snotabouttheinteriorli
4、fe.寻找3-5-5-7.Paging3-5-5-7.思想与行为是一致的MAN(continues):Thereisnogapbetweenthethoughtandtheact.不像你所认为的Itisntlikeyousay,啊我该这公做该这公做吗？Oh,shouldIdothisfshouldIdothis?就象.(模仿闪电)It,slike.(imitateslightningstrike)要我带你们走出去吗？AmIgoingtowalkyoudowntheaisleandgiveyouaway?所以说犹豫不决确实不是MAN(continues):SothatkindOfhesitati
5、onandcontemplationisnot这种文化的一部分reallyapartofthisculture.或许说拉斯维加斯有些神秘的东西WOMAN:Maybethere,ssomemysticalthingaboutLasVegas.你愿意想人可以控制与支配Youknow,youdliketothinkthatmangovernsanddominates所有能让历史展开的决定allthedecisionsthatmakehistoryunfold.但是显然人们必须有一个恰当的地方Butclearlypeoplemusthavebeenintherightplace恰当的时候attheri
6、ghttime.有些人会说这只是天性Now,somecouldsayit,sjustnature.我说那是运气Isayitsluck.PBS美国印象:拉斯维加斯.一段离经叛道的历史(上)第一部分罪恶之城拉斯维加斯除了脱衣舞外还有很多的东西WOMAN：There,ssomuchmoretoVegasthantheStrip.一旦你来到这里看到他们另外的一切Andonceyougethereandseewhatelsetheyhave,你就不会想去看脱衣舞了youwon,tevencometotheStrip.客房♥服务Housekeeping.(敲门)(knocksatdoor)(
7、钥匙声)(keysjingle)(房♥门打开)有人吗(doorunlocks)Hello.以前我生活在加利福尼亚WOMAN:Well,whenIlivedinCalifornia,没有什么机会Ididnthavethatmanyopportunities,但是这里他们建起了这么多的酒店butheretheygotsomanyhotelscomingup,店铺每天都营业storesopeningupeveryday.所以你找份活干实在是很容易的Soyoucangetajobrealeasy.可能不是你想干的活Itmightnotbethejobyouwant但毕竟是份工作直到你找到
8、理想的工作butitllbeajobuntilyougetthejobyouwant.我的哥哥已经搬到拉斯维加斯了MybrothermovedheretoLasVegas,所以我来这里看他时soIvebeencomingheretovisithim他对我说你应该到这里来andhesaid,Youshouldcomeuphere.这里找房♥子什么的都不难It,seasytogetahouseuphereandstuff一旦你提出申请你就能得到一间全新的房♥子Whenyouapplyforit,youcanmoveintoabrand-newhouse.他们按照你的要求
9、建房♥Theybuilditthewayyouwant-知道吗是你要他们怎么建的youknow,thewayyouwantthemto.不用押金Nomoneydown.不要一分钱Notapenny.现在房♥子属于我的了！Now,thatwasforme!(欢笑)(laughs)我已经为房♥子作好准备了Iwasreadyforthat.所以真的不错Soit,s.it,srealnice.有两个房♥间两个卫生间Itsatwo-bedroom,two-bathroom.但是眼下我在考虑换套大一点的房♥子Butrightnowmth
10、inkingaboutgettingabiggerhouse,因为我有三个孙女becauseIhavethreegranddaughtersnow.所以我们要大点的房♥子Sowe,regoingtogetabiggerplace.就象其它城镇样It,sjustlikeanyothertown.这里有俱乐部动物园.Ithasclubs,zoos.你不会想到拉斯维加斯有动物园吧但他们真的建了动物园YouwouldntthinkVegaswouldhaveazoo,buttheygotazoo.我们从来没有开车兜风过Weneverdrovearound.我们一到拉斯维加斯就直接来林荫大
11、道WhenwecometoVegas,wecomestraightdowntheboulevard我们下榻在有脱衣舞的andwestayedontheStrip.我一直就没出门！andInevergotout!但是你要知道一旦你赌上了就要输钱的But,youknow,onceyougambleandloseyourmoney,就要回老家的yougohome.还用问留下是为了什么吗？Whatelsetostayfor?然而这里是个实实在在的城市Butitsarealtown.这的确是我平生最好的一次搬家ThisisindeedthebestmoveIevermade.以前我也不是住在加利福尼亚的
12、Iwasn,testablishedinCalifornia.我是1970年搬到那里的Iwenttherein1970.我一直都没买♥♥♥房♥♥子我一直都没有属于自己的东西Ineverboughtahouse;Ineverownedanything.而当你步入40岁后Andwhenyougetinyour40s,你就必须要有属于自己的东西了对吧youhavetoownsomething,youknow.所以我一到这里就找到了一份工作SosoonasImovedhere,!gotmyjobs,买♥♥
13、一辆新车买♥♥r一辆新的卡车买♥♥一套新房♥子gotanewcar,gotanewtruck,gotanewhouse.我到这里才六年Andveonlybeenheresixyears.我发rIcleanedup.(欢笑)(chuckles)我想控制这个地方的是它处在边缘MAN:Ithinktheholdofthisplaceis.it,sontheedge.它需要成为Anditneedstobe.这地方一直就是你打开窗户Ifsalwaysbeenaplacewhereyoulookoutofyourwindows就能看到太
14、阳升起在沙漠上andseethesunriseorsetonthedesert那里可是有各种各样的蛇出没andknowthattherearesnakesandserpentsoutthere.它是那样的神圣Ifsbiblicalinthatway,你能想象如果这里没有了这一切的建设andifyoucanimaginetheplacedevoidofallconstruction,你马上就会说youwouldquicklysay,啊地球上谁会来这种地方？Well,whoonEarthwouldhavecomehere?1因为这里不是建设城市的合适的地方Becauseitsnotasensibl
15、eplacetobuildacity,我想还是感觉到andIthinkthereisstillthatfeelingof.那种疯狂的超现实的成就克服了大自然的条件kindofloonysurrealtriumphovertheelements.听说过吗可恶的自然条件Youknow,Damnthoseelements.我们能够战胜它们Wecanbeatthem.更荒芜的地区几乎是想象不出来的NARRATOR:Amoregodforsakenlocalecouldscarcelyhavebeenimagined.然而在1930年大萧条期间Butin1930,inthemidstoftheGreat
16、Depression,南内华达州的布拉克峡谷被许多美国人southernNevadasBlackCanyonlookedtomanyAmericans看作天堂likeparadise.仅仅在6个月里Injustsixmonths,差不多有4.2万人蜂拥而至到这荒凉的地方来some42,000mendescendedonthatdesolatespot,拼命抢5000个建筑工作中的一个desperatetolandoneofthe5,000constructionjobs那是建巨石大坝也叫胡佛大坝ontheBoulderDam,alsoknownasHooverDam,大规模的工程项目amass
17、iveengineeringproject是要利用强大的科罗拉多河thatwouldharnessthemightyColoradoRiver为整个西南部的六个州造福forthebenefitofahalfdozenstatesthroughouttheSouthwest.(爆破)(explosion)在长达四年半之久的时间里Forfourandahalflongyears,大坝工人白天thedamworkerswouldspendtheirdays在坚硬的石墙之间累死累活地干活slavingbetweenwallsofstubbornhardrock墙上碰上去实在是滚烫thatwaslite
18、rallytoohottobetouched,晚上他们则被关在博尔德市里andtheirnightspennedupinBoulderCity,那是一个有些房♥子安顿的联邦保留地afederalreservationwithfewofthecomfortsofhome一切乡规都是一样的：andallofthesamehometownrules:不准赌博不准卖♥♥淫绝对不准饮酒nogambling,noprostitutionandabsolutelynoliquor.他们生活就是等着发薪水Theylivedforpayday.由于兜里有了钱Withmo
19、neyintheirpockets,一点火苗就能炸飞博尔德市theyblewoutofBoulderCityasifitwereonfire他们直奔一个尘土飞扬的小镇andheadedstraightforadustylittletown它在莫哈韦沙漠的中间叫做拉斯维加斯inthemiddleoftheMojavecalledLasVegas.这里沿着两个街区长的弗里蒙特街There,alongatwo-blockstretchofFremontStreet,镇上的要冲thetownsmaindrag,在被称为16街区的红灯区附近andinthenearbyred-lightdistrictk
20、nownasBlock16,他们碰上了一个完全开放的集中了theyencounteredoneofthegreatestconcentrations美♥利♥坚♥合众国其它地方能找到的罪恶之地ofwide-openvicetobefoundanywhereinProhibitionAmerica:污秽的灯火通明的赌博窝点abawdy,brightlylitclusterofgamblingdens热轧钢板的卖♥♥淫床andhot-sheetprostitutioncribs酒吧接着酒吧接着酒吧andsaloonaftersal
21、oonaftersaloon.他们生活在这冷漠的沙漠里的这些营地里MAN:Theywerelivinginthesecampsinthisunforgivingdesert生活在禁闭之中inastateofreallockdown.实事求是地说真的是无聊之极Andletsfaceit,thereisabsolutelynothingtodo.所以在博尔德的发薪口有两种选择SoyouhadtwochoicesonpaydayinBoulderCity.要么留在营地里Youcouldstaybackinthecamp没有酒喝或许就和朋友打打牌andnotdrinkandmaybeplaysomec
22、ardswithyourfriends消磨一晚andwaitfornighttocome,要么去弗里蒙特街赌博喝酒oryoucouldhitFremontStreetandgambleanddrink聚会直到把钱化完andpartyuntilyourcheckranout.现在你会选择哪种？Now,whichonewouldyouchoose?建立于1905年当时是个铁路小镇NARRATOR:Foundedin1905asarailroadtown,拉斯维加斯已经享有了12年的繁华的声誉了LasVegashadenjoyedaboutadozenyearsofprosperity,给过路的旅客
23、提供服务cateringtopassengersonlayover给北方和南方供应采矿帐篷andsupplyingtheminingcampstothenorthandsouth.但是其作为典型的西部新兴城镇的期限ButitsstintasaclassicWesternboomtown短得可怜hadbeenshort-lived.1922年在全国总罢&hearts江♥将通往小镇的铁路停运后In1922,afteranationalstrikeidledthelinethroughthetown将近一个月fornearlyamonth,铁路方搬走了维修工厂therailroadmo
24、veditsrepairshops解雇了几百号♥人andlaidOffhundredsofpeople.许多企业破产了有些旁观者确信Manybusinesseswentbelly-up,andsomeobserversthoughtsure这个地方将变成一座鬼城theplacewouldwindupaghosttown.无奈之际当地的推动者构思出了狂野的计划Indesperation,localboostersdreamedupwildschemes来摆脱市镇的困境tokeepthetownafloat:乡镇游乐场acountyfairground.为潜在的离婚者服务的度假牧场d
25、uderanchesforprospectivedivorcees.九洞的高尔夫球向andanine-holegolfcourse唯独缺少关键的部分:草坪thatlackedonlyonekeycomponent:grass.但是一切都是徒劳的,Butnothingreallyworked.最后挽救了拉斯维加斯的IntheenwhatsavedLasVegas是内华达州对罪过的历史性宽恕wasNevadashistorictoleranceforsin.内华达缺乏其它州所具有的资源MAN:Nevadalackedtheresourcesthatotherstateshad.它十分干早Itwas
26、soarid缺乏足够的水来发展工业thatitlackedenoughwatertodevelopindustries.l♥8♥9♥0年内华达是联邦中人口密度最低的州Inl♥8♥9♥0,Nevadawasthelowestpopulatedstateintheunion.它的人口少于Ithadlesspeople你在波士顿芬威公园里所碰到人thanyoucouldfitinFenwayParkinBoston.一些州确实谈论过内华达SomestatesactuallytalkedaboutNevada并入加利福
27、尼亚becomingpartofCalifornia整个取消内华达州andabolishingNevadaaltogether.因此为了把人留住保持经济的持续Andsoinordertokeeppeoplehereandkeeptheeconomygoing,没有一个城镇真的马上取消了边缘地区的罪恶之地noneofthetownsreallyabolishedtheirfrontiervicesimmediately.我的意思是内华达的历史Well,Imean,thehistoryofNevada,我说它就是个大沙漠知道吗Imeanjt,sjustabigdeseryouknow.开8小时车I
28、t,saneight-hourdrive从这到里诺一片荒凉withnothinginbetweenhereandReno.我说确实不行Imean,it,sreallynowhere.整个传统就是干不合法的勾当Anditswholetraditionisdoingillegalstuff.我说他们做离婚的勾当做职业拳击的勾当Youknowjmean,theydodivorces,theydoprizefights.他们所做的一切都是联邦所禁止的TheydoallthisStuffthatwasbannedfromProhibitionAmerica.所以这就成为了你在沙漠里赚钱的途径Andsot
29、hisbecamethewayyoumakemoneyinthedesert.然而并不是到了1931年初NARRATOR:Butitwasntuntilearly1931内华达才真正背上联邦的无赖州的名声的thatNevadahadtrulysolidifieditsreputationasthenationsroguestate.在靠运气赌钱在全国各地是违法的年代Atatimewhengamesofchancewereillegaleverywhereelseinthecountry,上瘾的赌徒不得不在小巷背后anddiehardgamblershadtoplayinbackalleys和地
30、下俱乐部里赌博andundergroundclubs.内华达的立法者已经采取可耻的步骤Nevadalawmakershadtakenthescandalousstep合法开放赌场式的赌博Oflegalizingwide-open,casino-stylegambling.短短几个月Insideofafewmonths,拉斯维加斯弗里蒙特街出现了一间间紧挨的赌屋1.asVegassFremontStreetwaswall-to-wallgamblinghouses,老虎机安装到了andpennyslotmachineshadbeeninstalled镇上每一间加油站和小卖♥&hea
31、rts;屋里innearlyeverygasstationandgrocerystoreintown.这就让美国东海岸学术界THOMSON:ThisallowedEastCoastAmerica,academia,华盛顿教会称罪恶之都Washington,thechurches,tosaySodomandGomorrah一个巨大的污点兴起在了东方之眼内华达anenormousstainuponNevadaintheeyesoftheEast,这个我认为是在消磨时光whichIthinklingerstothisday.仅仅靠合法的赌博是永远不会把人们带到NARRATOR:Legalgambli
32、ngalonewouldlikelyneverhavebroughtpeople如此偏远的拉斯维加斯的toaplaceasremoteasLasVegas.然而由于博尔德的情愿挨饿的人们Butwiththepleasure-starvedresidentsofBoulderCity现在就是不走了nowjustdowntheroad,沙漠边远的居民点突然发了大财thedesertoutpostwasabouttomakeakilling.对大坝的好奇更进一步推进了生意Curiosityaboutthedamboostedbusinessevenfurther.1932年大约有10万人来看In19
33、32,some100,000peoplewenttogawk后来很快就被誉为atwhatwasfastbecomingknown世界第八大奇迹的大家伙astheeighthwonderoftheworld,许多人中途停留andmanypausedenroute去尝试一下拉斯维加斯的独特的诱惑tosampletheuniqueattractionsofLasVegas.那时Bythattime,这个机会主义的城镇很早就自我吹嘘theopportunistictownhadlongsincetakentobillingitself是胡佛水坝的门户astheGatewaytotheBoulderDa
34、m.随后1935年富兰克林罗斯福总统来到这里ThenJn1935,PresidentFranklinRooseveltcametotown.我们来这里欢庆ROOSEVELT:Weareheretocelebrate世界上最大的大坝的竣工thecompletionofthegreatestdamintheworld.没儿个月NARRATOR:Withinamatterofmonths,数以千计的大坝工人突然消失了thethousandsofdamworkersabruptlydisappeared.弗里蒙特街一位旁观者记得FremontStreeoneobserverremembered,突然之
35、间变得空空荡荡wassuddenlyasemptyascouldbefound.多亏了大坝Thanksmainlytothedam,拉斯维加斯发现了极大的获利潜力1.asVeganshaddiscoveredtheimmensepotentialforprofit在于满足美国人禁欲的渴望inAmericasforbiddendesires.然而要充分利用它Buttofullyexploitit,他们就必须找到把人们吸引到沙漠里来的办法theywouldhavetofindawaytolurepeopletothedesert.现在前景似乎并不明朗Fornow,theprospectsseeme
36、ddim.正像一位作家写的人们昨天不在这里Asonewriterputit,Thepeoplewerenothereyesterday,明天也不在这里andtheywillnotbeheretomorrow.有条主线贯穿在这地方的整个历史中COOPER:Thereisathreadthatrunsthroughthewholehistoryofthisplace同样它涉及到美国和美国文化asitrelatestoAmericaandAmericanculture.这是一个避难所It,sarefuge.这是一个你会赶去的地方Itsaplacethatyourunto.这是一个你自我陶醉的地方If
37、saplacethatyouindulgeyourselfin.这是摆脱难以置信的束缚的途径It,sawayoutoftheincrediblestraitjacket即我们发现自己陷入了严格控制的生活里了thatwefindourselvesininourhighlyregimentedandregulatedlives.很多人来拉斯维加斯结婚MAN:AlotofpeoplecometoVegasandgetmarried是因为他们一开始计划在家里举办婚礼becausetheystartplanningaweddingathome,成本失控了andthecostgetsoutofhand.可
38、能会有表兄直利过来对你说YoumighthaveCousinCharliecomealong噢你那样不行的andsay,Oh,youcan,tdoitthatway,你要这么办yougottodoitthis.然后奶奶过来说喂你要这么办AndthengrandmasaysWell,yougottodothis.然而他们就说不予理睬Andtheysay,Forgetit.他们登上飞机来拉斯维加斯结婚Theygetonanairplane,cometoVegasandgetmarried.您愿意将您的爱情荣誉尊重Willyoulove,honor,respect以及忠诚与他andbefaithfu
39、ltohim伴随终身吗？allthedaysofyourlife?愿意Yes.婚姻是上帝在人类之初就缔造的庄重的财产MarriageisanhonorableestateinstitutedbyGodintheverybeginningofman.因此一定要郑重对待Itis,therefore,nevertobeenteredintolightly虔诚地真诚地接受上帝的慈爱butreverently,sincerely,andintheloveofGod.(乐章拉斯维加斯万岁)(VivaLasVegasplays)*Bright-lightcity*Gonnasetmysoul,gonnase
40、tmysoulonfire*Gottawholelotofmoney.*我♥干♥证婚有10年了OFFICIANT:vebeendoingweddingstenyears见证了3.7万多一点的新人andIhavedonealittlemorethan37,000.最多的一天证婚了86对86isthemostvedoneinaday.*ELVIS:VivaLasVegas.*我曾经在一个全是裸体参与者的舞台上见证过一次婚姻OFFICIANT:Ididoneweddingonstageinatotalnudejoint.我曾经在个晚上为个男人和他的摩托车证过婚Ididac
41、ommitmentceremonyonenightforamanandhismotorcycle.有一天来了一位夫人Ihadaladycomeinoneday,两个随从跟着来的他们都是精心打扮hadacoupleofattendantswithher,werealldressedup.她想嫁给自己Shewantedtomarryherself.我留意到你们一个是生活在新奥尔良InoticethatoneofyoulivesinNewOrleans一个是生活在梅泰里andonelivesinMetairie.梅泰里对Metairie,yeah.梅泰里？真的？Metairie?Mm-hmm.你们中
42、的一个将要移居Areoneofyougoingtomove还是你去orareyougoingto.啊是他过来Yeah,he,scoming.那你感到高兴吗？.orareyougoingtobehappy?我们将搬到一起住的Wegoingtomovetogether.（笑声）（chuckles）（风琴演奏新娘来了）（HereComestheBrideplaysonorgan）证婚礼堂是项生意OFFICIANT：Theweddingchapelsareabusiness.过来伙计Rightthere,guys.我想有些牧师OFFICIANT:Ithinkthatsomeoftheministers
43、在市里证婚混淆了牧师的职责thatdoweddingsinthistownconfusethatwithaministry,然而我是注重效力的butIrollwiththepunches.人们想怎样对我来说都无所谓的Whaeverthesepeoplewantisokaywithme.杰金你承认戈尔丁为自己的合法妻子吗？Jiirgen,doyoutakeGoudrintobeyourlawfulweddedwife?（翻译成德语）(translatingintoGerman)承认Yes,Ido.戈尔丁你承认杰金为自己的合法丈夫吗Goudrin,doyoutakeJurgentobeyourla
44、wfulweddedhusband?承认Yes.用内华达州授予我的权力BythepowersvestedinmebythestateofNevada,我宣布你们成为夫妻Ipronounceyouhusbandandwife.你要在那里举办婚礼？Yougotaweddingdownthere?好的Okay.好的别让他们离开Allrighholdontothem.我马上就到I1bethereasquickasIcan.我认为结婚是件大事OFFICIANT:Ithinkmarriageisgreat.请下注女士们先生们MAN:Placeyourbets,ladiesandgentlemen.英国作家
45、萨默塞特.毛姆NARRATOR:TheBritishwriterSomersetMaugham曾经描述蒙特卡洛oncedescribedMonteCarlo,那个法国里维埃拉的迷人的赌博度假胜地theglamorousgamblingresortontheFrenchRiviera,为阴暗的人呆的阳光灿烂的地方asasunnyplaceforshadypeople.在上世纪40年代早期Bytheearly1940s,拉斯维加斯也有同样的说法thesamemighthavebeensaidofLasVegas.所谓的运动生涯的人们的第一拨大潮Thefirstbigwaveofso-calledsportinglifecharacters在1938年又回来了hadarrivedbackin1938,之前具有改革意识的洛杉矶市长将他们赶出了洛杉矶afterareform-mindedmayorranthemoutofLosAngeles.便当的短途旅程从天使之城出发Aneasyday-tripfromtheCityofAngels,拉斯维加斯显然1.asVegashadbecometheobviousdestination是大量的非法赌博玩家forthescoresofillegalgamblingoperators扑克老千和逃犯的目的地and
