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1、我认为明火烹饪是一件有灵性的事Cookingwithfire,forme,it,salittlebitspiritual.因为一旦你将火点燃Onceyoustartthatignitionprocess.它就拥有了生命it,ssomethingthathasalife.一旦点燃了那堆火你就必须投入Assoonasyoulightthatfire,yourecommitted.你无法关掉它Youcantswitchoff.必须看着它直到最后一丝火苗熄灭Youhavetoseeitthroughtothefinalflame.但当你拥有了这样的力量.Butwhenyouharnessthatpow
2、er,你的所有感官都会觉醒allofyoursensesaresuddenlyawoken.你就处在危险边缘Youreonthisedgeofdanger,这是一场持久战anditsaconstantbattle.因为有掌控权的并不是你Becauseyoureneverfullyincontrol.一切都由火焰操控Thefiresincontrol.你只是在想办法配合火焰Youretryingtofindawayofworkingwithit,但不管你怎么做火焰都会肆意妄为butthefirewilldowhatthehellitwantsnomatterwhatyoudo.NETFLIX出品
3、NETFLIX原创纪录片系列（悉尼澳大利亚）外国人印象最深刻的澳大利亚食物OneofthethingsoutsidersthinkofwhentheythinkofAustralianfood就是烧烤isbarbecuing.烧烤大虾什公的Thatshrimponthebarbie,thing.虽然很俗套但这的确是我们生活的一部分Thoughitsacliche,itispartofhowWelive,这反映了我们喜欢的烹饪方式anditdoesreflecthowweliketocook.当你听到这些话的时候：So,whenyouhearthesewords,”烧烤餐厅Grillrestau
4、rant,店里的人完全在用火烤制食物”wheretheguycooksoverfireahundredpercentofthetime/你就会想象那个做饭的人没穿鞋子youexpectthepersoncookingthatfoodisntwearingshoes.他们手上肯定拿着一瓶啤酒Theyalmostcertainlyhaveabeerintheirhand.但火门餐厅完全是另一番光景AtFiredoor,itscompletelydifferent.它的厨房♥跟你见过的所有厨房♥都不一样Thekitchendoesntlooklikeanykitcheny
5、ouveeverseen.那里有一个双门烤炉看起来像地狱之门Therestwowood-firedovensthatlooklikegatestohell.有人告诉我那个烤炉的温度足够熔化玻璃Someonetoldmetheyburnatatemperaturehotenoughtomeltglass,这就很有意思whichisfun.不用燃气Theresnogas,不用电there,snoelectricity.烹饪食物的唯一方式Theonlywaytocookthefood,唯一方式就是用火theonlyWay,iswithfire.没有人会那样做Noonedoesthat.太疯狂了Tha
6、tscrazy.伦诺克斯哈斯蒂绝不妥协1.ennoxHastienevercompromisesonanything.他严苛到了精神病态的程度Hisclinicalpsychopathy不管是对F烹饪whenitcomestocooking,食材采购sourcingingredients,还是生火andmakinghisfires我从来没见过他那样的isunlikeanythingdeverseen.与此同时他的烹饪是温柔细致的Atthesametime,hiscookingisgentle,itissubtle.需要持续的控制和关注lt,sconstantcontrolandconstant
7、attention.他曾说过如果看到一块肉上Heoncetoldmethatwhenheseesagrillline有一条烤架焦痕就是巨大的失败onapieceofmeat,itsasignofhorriblefailure.这个男人会用火Weretalkingaboutaguywhousesfire烹饪生菜tocooklettuce.他会用火烹饪椰子Heusesfiretocookcoconuts.他会用火做面点Heusesfiretocookpastry.他将火视作画笔而不是锤子Heconsidersittobeapaintbrushratherthanahammer,用它精细地tover
8、ydelicately,温柔地诱哄出verygentlycoaxout食材本身最棒的风味theabsolutebestaningredienthastooffer.明火烹饪WhenyoureCookingwithfire,是很激烈的itsintense.非常消耗体力Itsphysicallydemanding.还需要非常集中的注意力Italsorequiresahugeamountofconcentration.这就是烹饪界的走钢索Thisishighwirecooking.没有安全网的那种Thereisnosafetynethere.大部分用火烹饪的人看到烧烤Whenmostpeopleco
9、okwithfire,theyseeabarbecue会认为火只是一种烹饪工具andthinkofitasjustapieceofequipment.但人类与火的关系远不止于此Buttherelationshipwithhumanityandfiregoeswaybeyondthat.早在200万年前Aslongastwomillionyearsago,人类就开始用火烹饪了peoplewerecookingwithfire.我认为没有任何东西比火Idontthinktherewasanythingelsethatwasacatalyst更促进人类的进化toouradvancement.火使人类
10、聚到一起Firebroughtusalltogether.我们会围在火堆边Wewouldgatherroundthefire,火能带来温暖itwouldheatus,能营造出社群的氛围itwouldcreateasenseofcommunity,让我们能进一步发展andthenenabledustodevelopfurther.虽然火有丰富的历史Butdespiteallthisrichhistory,但它从未被视作精致料理的烹饪方式it,sneverbeenrecognizedasafinediningstyleofcooking.我想打破这个观念Iwouldjustlovetocrusht
11、hat.人们总是会觉得火是阳刚的People,spreconceptionsoffire,itsalwaysgonnabemasculine,强壮strong,巨大热烈big,intense.它不一定总是那个形象Itdoesnthavetobethatway.它也可以是柔软的.Itcanalsobesoft.精致的.delicate.有着味觉上的微妙差别thesesubtlenuancesofflavor.当你将一个那么Whenyoutakesomethingso.强壮、原始的东西rugged,soprimitive用到精致料理之上tothatfinedininglevel.味道是独一无二的i
12、t,slikenothingelse.所以我喜欢讲述这种烹饪方式ThatswhyItellthestoryofthisamazingformofcooking.这里有多少头？Howmanyheadarehere?5353.这里有50头牛三头牛犊是吗？So,theres50cows,threecalves.-Oh,yeah?-它们看起来很棒一对Theylookgood.-Yeah.它们的生长环境非常好Theyrenicelyconditioned.这里的草地非常棒哇哦Thegrasses,youvegotsomegoodgrasshere.Wow.澳大利亚人非常重视牛肉Beefisahugeth
13、inginAustralia.到处都能看到各种牛排餐馆Theresheapsofsteakhouseseverywhere.如果我要做牛排的话So,ifIwasgonnadoasteak,我只会挑选最好的那一块牛排Iwasonlygonnadoonesteak,andithadtobethebestone.怎样才能让东西上一个档次？Whatdoesitmeantotakesomethingtothenextlevel?首先我们会亲自挑选Westartbyhandselecting牛群中最棒的2%或者3%thetoptwoorthreepercentoftheherd.它们都是造物主的奇迹The
14、yreallfreaksofnature.在此基础上我想挑战Beyondthat,Iwantedtopushthelimits熟成牛肉的极限onwhereyoucangowithagingmeat.牛肉跟红酒一样Beefislikewine.熟成时间越久Ageitlonger,就越值得等待itbecomessomethingthatsworthwaitingfor.-那是你的吗？-对Isthatyours?-Yep.那是你的对Thatsyours,yeah.大部分牛肉是干式熟成的Themajorityofmeatisdryaged.说白了就是可控的腐♥败♥Itsco
15、ntrolleddecomposition.把肉吊在这里Sothemeat,sjustlefttohang,腐烂justrotting.牛肉只能熟成到一定程度Theresonlysofaryoucantakethatmeat.这块可以了吗？Thereitis,buddy.纹路也很漂亮看Nicemarbling,look.对棒极了Yeah,incredible.我们在尝试着给它涂上油脂Wesetaboutexperimentinghandpaintingitwithfat.保护这块牛肉的边缘Protectingtheedgesofthisbeef.这些油脂让你能进步熟成它Thatfatthene
16、nablesyoutotakeitfurther.干式熟成的牛肉Dryagingmeat,一般需要30天30daysisaboutthenorm.极端一点的会到90天Someextremiststakeitto90days.伦诺克斯会让他的牛肉熟成200天1.ennoxtakeshisbeefto200days,这太疯狂了whichisinsane.肉和脂肪通过熟成结合在一起Throughtheaging,themeatandthefatmarrytogether.脂肪能让牛肉Andthatfatallowsittoglide轻松地划过烤架effortlesslyacross.在上面回温tot
17、emper并且融化andmeltonthegrill.这块牛肉放在锅里煎就已经很好吃了It,salreadyagreatsteakcookeditinapan,但放在木头生的火上烤butcookingitoverawoodfire才对得起它的品质iswhatitdeserves.它就应该被这样烤熟It,swhatitshouldbe.可以烤出漂亮的脆皮内部是宝石般的红色Yougetthisbeautifulcrustwiththisjewel-likeredinterior.我每天都在餐厅里做牛排Icooksteakeverysingledayattherestaurant还是会为此兴奋到战栗
18、andIstillgetchillsdownmyspine.这样的牛排Thiswillbelike你在世界上其他任何地方都吃不到nosteakyouveevereatenanywhereintheworld.你尝到的不是焦糊味Yourenottastingchar.你能吃到食材本身的味道Youretastingtheingredient.这道牛排只用到了肉Theresnothingelsegoingonhereexceptmeat,盐salt,和技术andskill.这块肉非常了不起会改变你的人生Thisisextraordinarymeat.Itwillchangeyourlife.（干式熟
19、成203天牛肋条）我在英格兰东南部长大IgrewupintheSoutheastofEngland.那里非常美丽It,sabeautifulpartoftheworld.我们住在一栋老房♥子里所以每间屋子都有壁炉Welivedinaveryoldhouse,sowehadfireplacesineveryroom.我可能从小就跟别人不一样Growingup,1wasabitunusual,Isuppose.有一点奇怪Alittlebitofanoddball.我到哪儿都不是很合群Ididntreallyfitinanywhere.我的学业并不是很优秀Iwasn,tatthehig
20、hendofacademia,我也不太喜欢体育andIwasnthugelyintosports.我大概在追求那个时候没有的东西IwaslookingformorethanIwasbeingoffered,Isuppose.在我15岁的时候WhenIwas15,我开始跟着父母在一家乡村旅馆工作IstartedworkinginaCountryHouseHotelnearmyparents.很传统的英式法式餐厅VerytraditionalFrench/Englishrestaurant.米其林一星HadaMichelinStar.那是我进入的第一个厨房♥Myfirstkitche
21、nIveeverbeenin.我被它深深吸引了Iwasfascinatedbyit.食材会从后门被运进来Theingredientswouldcomeinthebackdoor,被做成很棒的东西从前门被运出去andthengooutthefrontdoor,transformedintosomethingamazing.我一头扎进那个厨房♥里Iimmersedmyselfinthatkitchen,这改变我的人生anditchangedmylife.我知道我天生就属于那里IknewIwassupposedtobethere.我找到了归属感Ifeltpartofsomething.
22、（斯迪克斯农场新南威尔上下波特兰）现在种的是什么东西？Whathaveyougotgrowing?现在是很多欧芹Alotofparsley.那边是胡萝卜和大葱Carrotsandleeksoverthere,还有西红柿andtomatoes.啊这里有黄金甜菜Ah,yougotsomegoldenbeetsthere.太美了It,sbeautiful.人们去烧烤餐厅Peoplegotoagrillrestaurant,会期待那里是肉食圣殿andtheyrejustexpectingalargetempleofmeat.我想让他们有不同的体验Iwannagivethemsomethingdiffe
23、rent对你会注意到甜味Yeah,youllnoticethesweetness.这种甜菜很好Itsagoodbeet.很适合烤制对Itwillgowellonagrill.-Yeah.你还种了什么？Whatelseyougot?这是番茄是俄♥罗&hearts撕♥黑番茄Thesearetomatoes.ThesearetheblackRussians.这些番茄成熟后会是这个颜色里面是绿色的So,thesewillbethatcolorwhenthey*reripeandgreeninthecenter.多年来蔬菜都被当作Foryears,vegetableshave
24、beenverymuchtreated陪衬和配菜asaccompanimentsandsides.我的天Oh,myGod.这是我本季品尝的第一只番茄Firstoftheseasonvetasted.太棒了Thatsbeautiful.我从小就吃蒸蔬菜Igrewuphavingsteamedvegetables.怪不得小朋友都那么不爱吃蔬菜Nowonderit,sdifficulttogetkidstoeatvegetables,因为它们吃起来味道差不多becauseitalltastesthesame.噢这个太香了Thatsmellsincredible.但我可以像处理肉一样处理蔬菜.Tobe
25、abletotreatthisvegetableasapieceofmeat.能将蔬菜做出不同的风味suddenlytakesittosomewhereelse.你可以把蔬菜扔到火里Youcanthrowavegetableintothefire.你可以让它在余烬上慢烤Youcanbakeitslowlyintheembers,它们在被精细烹饪的过程中andtheywilltakeinalotoftheheatandalotoftheflavor会吸收很多热量和风味whilstcookingverydelicatelyaswell.连沙拉都在火里走过一遭Eventhesaladistouche
26、dbyfire.我们会用超高温Wegrillallthesebeautifullettuces炙烤这些美丽的生菜oversuperintenseheat甜生菜会变得更甜Thesweetlettucesgetsweeter,苦菜会焦化thebitterlettucescaramelize.生菜就需要被这样处理It,salmostwhatthatlettucehasbeenmissing.在火门餐厅AtFiredoor,肉类非常美味themeatsdelicious,但那不是最令我激动的东西butitsnotthethingthatexcitesmethemost,因为难的是做好蔬菜causeth
27、echallengeisvegetables.伦诺克斯用火提炼出大量风味我觉得这非常神奇1.ennoxextractsmajorflavorusingfire,andIfindthatreallyfascinating.人们对沙拉不会有很高的期待Theexpectationofasaladsprettylow.沙拉能好吃到哪儿去？1.ike,howgoodcanasaladbe?但实际上火烤过的沙拉美味到难以想象Butactually,howgreatcanasaladbecookedoverfire.你选择亲自耕种我觉得很棒mgladyoudecidedtogointofarming.是的在
28、厨房♥里待了太久这样更好Iknow.Manyhoursinthekitchen,thisisbetter.你厨子当得不赖但我觉得你更擅长种菜YouwerentabadCheEbutyoureabetterfarmer.希望如此Ihopeso.我从厨艺学校毕业后OnceIgraduatedfromculinaryschool,必须要证明自己Ihadtoprovemyself.我开始在英国一个很严肃的法式厨房♥里工作IgotajobworkingataveryseriousFrenchkitchenintheUK.至。了那个级别所有东西都是军事化精确管理Atthatle
29、vel,thingsarerunwithmilitaryprecision.你有时候会被吼Sometimesyourebeingscreamedat或者被砸东西orsomethingthrownatyou.我刚过去的时候WhenIstartedthere,负责装饰菜负责肉类的那个人会把他的勺子放在炉子上Iwasonthegarnish.Guyonthemeatusedtoputhisspoononthestove然后烫我的手臂让我动作更快andburnmyarmtogetmetomovefaster.虽然会受到一点虐待Butdespiteabitofabuse,但我那时候总想着要提升自己Iju
30、stalwayswantedtoimproveandbebetterthanIwas.接受了法式餐厅的训练后HavingtrainedinFrenchrestaurants,下一步就是去到法国工作了thenextstepwastogoandworkinFrance.我获得了一份在一家米其林三星餐厅的工作IgotajobworkingatathreeMichelinStarrestaurant.那是烹饪界的巅峰Thatsthebestofgastronomy.所以我的期待值非常高So,myexpectationswerehuge.那家餐厅是一个机器由庞大的人力运转Therestaurantwas
31、amachinewiththishugelaborforce.会有六个人共同摆盘一道菜Theredbesixguysplatingonedish.那些食物会经过很多道工序处理Thefoodrequiredsomanylevelsofpreparation,从冰冻到脱水.fromfreezingtodehydrating,一个盘F上有14种味道14differentflavorsonaplate.最终的成品看上去美极Bythetimeitgottoitsendresult,itlooksamazing.但当我尝过之后ButthenItriedit.我没有任何感觉Anditdidntdoanyth
32、ingforme.那么复杂的技术Allthisfocuswasonthistechnique,和对食材的处理都并不引人注目andtheingredientswerentinthelimelight.我觉得非常幻灭Ifeltcompletelydisillusioned.我终于能在三星餐厅工作Igottothatlevelofworkinginathreestar以为自己能找到梦寐以求的东西.andyouthinkyouregonnafindwhatyoudreamedof.但它并不在那里anditwasntthere.我那时候感到很绝望Iwasleftfeelingprettyhopeless
33、.我现在该去哪儿？WheredoIgonow?我后来在西班牙的一家小酒馆里帮忙IwashelpingoutinapinchosbarinSpain,转变-下节奏enjoyingachangeofpace.一天晚上酒吧里的几个人Oneevening,acoupleofguysatthebar,提到一家烧烤餐厅theymentionedthisgrillrestaurant.说了一些我不知道是什么Somethingabout,Idontknowwhatitwas,关于一个人about.theresthisguy.他在山上He,sinthemountains.他只做烧烤把所有东西都拿来烤Allhed
34、oesisgrill,andjustgrillseverything.我必须去看看他们说的这个人Ihadtogoandseewhatitwasabout.所以我问了他们那是什公地方So,Iaskedtheguyswhatthenameoftheplacewas,那就是新屋烧烤餐厅whichwasAsadorEtxebarri.新屋烧烤餐厅Etxebarri1Snotlocated没有坐落在闹市区centrallytoanything.它有些与世隔绝Itsortofsitsonitsown,quiteisolated.这家餐厅坐落在重山之间Betweenthemountains,theresth
35、isrestaurant就像是just,like,there,被上帝放在了那里一样asifitwasalmostplacedtherebyGod.我进了楼下的酒吧Iwentintothedownstairsbar.我看到一个人独自站在烤架前Icouldseeamanaloneonthegrill.很大块的木头被送进炉子里Giantpiecesofwoodwouldgointotheoven.余火未尽的木块被拿出来Hotemberswouldbecomingout.食材被放到不同烤架上Ingredientswouldgoondifferentgrills.滑轮上下转动Pulleyswouldgo
36、upanddown.维克多的料理手法非常轻松ThewayinwhichVictorcookedwaseffortless.看起来像是某种舞蹈Itwasalmostlikeaformofdance.这个男人在与火交流和起舞Thismanconversinganddancingwithfire.我想学习他的做法Iwantedtolearnhowtodothat.维克多出来看了我的简历VictorcameoutandlookedatmyCV,询问我的经历askedaboutmyexperience.他比较关注的一点是Theonethinghewasquitekeenabout他不在乎米其林星级was
37、hewasn,tinterestedinMichelinStars.这对我很不利因为我会的就是这一套AnditwassoopposingformebecausethatswhatIhadtooffer.不看那些米其林餐厅1.ike,takeawaytheMichelinrestaurants,我就没有别的东西了只有我自己Ididnthaveanythingelse,Ijusthadme,youknow,还有我为此付出的各种努力andallthehardworkIcouldthrowatit.但他嘟哝了几句Hegruntedalittlebit,说：好你明天开始上班吧”andsays,Okay,
38、youcanstarttomorrow.刚开始跟维克多一起工作WhenIstartedworkingwithVictor,我觉得itwas.很奇怪bizarre.他不会说英语HedidntspeakEnglish.我不会说西班牙语IdidntspeakSpanish.你能看到他在做很多事情Youcouldseetherewasalotgoingonthere,但他不是那种会跟你演示buthewasneverthekindofguywhowasgonnademonstratesomething或者讲解的人orshowyousomething.所以我觉得最佳的学习方式So,Ifeltthebest
39、waytolearn是尽可能地跟在他身边工作wastoworkalongsidehimineverycapacity.维克多每天一早就开始工作了Victorwouldstartearlyinthemorning,无论他多早开始我都跟着一起andhoweverearlyVictorwouldstart,1wouldstart.我会试试你的想法mgonnatrythisideaofyours,把它们连克一起烤cookingtheseintheshell.对在那边多放一点油Yeah,ifyouputmoreoilinthatoneside.-这里？-对Here?-Yeah.-对-对然后.Yeah.-
40、Then.把它们放进去把它们放进去Sit,emthere?-Siteminthere.这多棒呀？Howgoodisthat?观察维克多就是最好的学习WatchingVictorwasmygreatestreferencepoint.我觉得应该好了Shouldbeready.正好可以-对Justabout.-Yep.看到你能这样操控火焰Seeinghowyoucouldmanipulatefire.这些食材用其他方式烹饪会很寡淡alltheseingredientsdulledbyothermethodsofcooking.但被火激发了活力aresuddenly.enlivened.漂亮的蛤蛆B
41、eautifulclams.美味的龙虾Amazinglobsters.鲜活的虾1.iveprawns.你以为你很了解一种食材Youthinkyouknowaningredient,但用明火烹饪完全是另一回事butcookingoverfiresawholenewbailgame.会拓宽你的眼界Justopensyoureyes.我一下子便从中获得了新生Itsuddenlygavemeanewleaseoflife.很好吃吧？Prettygood,yeah?美味极了Incredible.在餐厅里吃到螃蟹的时候我们不会想到Whenwegetcrabintherestaurant,wedontapp
42、reciateituntil.-要费多大力气才能抓到它们要费很大力气Youdothehardworkgettingit.-Allthework.在海滩边烧烤是最好的方式Cookedoverafireisthebestway.说得对Thatsright.早些年Inthoseearlydays,我们决定自己尝试wedembarkedonamissiontosetourselvesapart烧烤一切食材andtryandgrilleverything.我们会把一种食材放到烤架上Wewouldtakeaningredientandputitonagrill看会有什么反应andseewhattherea
43、ctionwas.火焰会有什么反应？食材会有什么反应？Howwouldthefirereact?Howwouldtheingredientreact?它们能很好地结合在一起吗？Wouldtherebeamarriage?我们中会有人说点什么你会觉得：“噢这也太荒唐了”Oneofuswouldsaysomething,youdthink,Ridiculous.然后你会想：”为什么不试试呢？Thenyouthink,Well,whynot?我们要是把1.ike,whatifwegrill你能想到的最金贵的食材放到火上会有什么效果？themostdelicateingredientyoucanthi
44、nkOfsubjectingittofire?（马洛索鱼子酱）我们不知道这样做行不行Wedidntknowifitwouldbeanygood.有几个人在探讨烧烤鱼子酱是否可行Therewasacoupleofpeoplewhoweredisgustedbytheideaofgrillingcaviar.”你这么做不尊重鱼子酱完全是胡闹”Notrespectingthecaviar,youdon,tknowwhatyou,redoing.刚开始尝试时它吸收了太多热量Inourearlyefforts,therewastoomuchheatbeingtransmitted.所以我们找到了漂亮的本
45、地海带So,wegotsomebeautiful,localseaweed.把它放在烤架之上1.etsplacetheseaweedinbetweenthetwo,把鱼子酱放到海带上andsitthecaviarontopoftheseaweed.这么做Andthatwas带来了质的飞跃agamechanger.它过滤广海的各种味道Itfiltersalltheflavorofthesea,但保留了海带里的部分水分butallowsacertainamountofmoistureintheseaweed保护了上面放的鱼广酱toprotectthecaviarthatsitsaboveit.当它吸收了余烬的热度之后Andbythetimeitsjustwarmedovertheembers,风味就完全改变了theflavorprofilehascompletelychanged.它变成了
